Land Between The Lakes Kentucky

Sunset on Kentucky Lake

Land Between The Lakes National Recreation Area

You're gonna here me talk a lot about Land Between the Lakes, it's beautiful and minutes from my home. I couldn't count the outings I've had in this land peninsula between Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley. Over 170,000 acres, 300 miles of shoreline, 500 miles of trails for hiking, biking, horse back riding,  and off-roading. A lot to explore! 

Two of many creeks in the area

On any given weekend you can find me cruising the back roads, camping, fishing, canoeing, or hiking the National Recreation Area, known locally as LBL. 

One of the many back roads

Wildflowers abound in Spring and no matter the season so does the wildlife. See Turkey, Foxes, two different Deer species, Eagles, and even take a cruise through the Elk & Bison Prairie.

LBL Wildlife

There are many camping areas from modern pay use to back country, that's my style! Just don't expect to find cabin

restaurants, or lodges. Facilities are basic outside the Woodlands Nature Station, Golden Pond Visitor's Center and Planetarium, or the Welcome Stations located the the North and South entrances. Modern amenities can be found in the numerous towns, resorts, and lodges surrounding LBL.

Many roads lead straight to the water.
One of several streams cross the back roads.

I remember one occasion where we were cruising the back roads with friends in two separate Jeep Cherokees when one began having alternator troubles causing the battery to die. We ended up swapping the batteries back and forth, using the Jeep with the good alternator to recharge the batteries. No one wants to leave a vehicle behind and/or complete repairs in the middle of no where.

There are also a lot of places there is no cell phone reception either. This me of another story. My husband and I were cruising the back roads and came upon a camouflage truck parked off the side of the road. We thought nothing of it, till we came back out the same road and saw a man in camo with a gun and dog. Okay, a hunter, we thought. He was in the middle of the road though and clearly trying to get us to stop. Once stopped, my husband rolled down his window and the man wanted to use a cell phone but neither of us had any reception. He told us he had lost his keys in the woods while hunting and had no spare. This strange man then wanted to ride with us in our regular cab truck with his dog and gun. Needless to say we weren't comfortable with that but didn't want to leave him stranded. Oddly he inquired hold cold it was supposed to get that night, which we advised into the 30's. We offered to call someone for him once we had a signal, he gave us the name of a friend, Edgar, and his number. He advised us to call Edgar, tell him where he, Moe, was and his situation. Edgar was supposed to have a spare key to his truck. We bid Moe farewell and assured him we would call Edgar. Once back toward the Trace, the main highway through LBL, we called Edgar but got his voicemail. My husband left a message detailing Moe's situation and location.

We arrived home and worried More would be left in LBL and thought my husband would have to return for him. Edgar finally called back and asked for more details. When advised of the situation Edgar told my husband he had bought Moe a GPS because he had gotten lost for several days in LBL before, but guessed that didn't help him find his keys. My husband made sure Edgar would be able to locate Moe and wished him luck.

There are a lot of lessons in both tales and I can't help but find some humor also. I will leave you to take what you want from them, and hope you get to explore this beautiful area!


Happy Hiking!  

Giant City State Park - Shawnee National Forest

Sandstone bluff

Giant City State Park is situated in Makanda, IL just South of Carbondale, IL off Route 51. Its name comes from the giant sandstone bluffs and hoodoos created by erosion and geographic fautling in the area eons ago. 

The park offers something for everyone! Plenty of camping including modern sites, primitive, and back country. Giant City also has Equestrian Trails and designated areas for rock climbing and rappelling. 

Bridge along Indian Creek Shelter Trail

Indian Creek Shelter

Informative sign at Indian Creek Shelter 

 Hiking and backpacking trails here are numerous! Eight different trails in varying length and difficulty ensure an adventure for even the novice hiker. The Post Oak Trail is a short, 1/3 mile trail that is paved, wheelchair and stroller accessible. Other trails range from 1/3 mile to 12 miles on the backpacking trail. One of the most famous if the Giant City Nature Trail that takes you around  the bluff and through giant sandstone rocks, known as the "streets" for the path that runs through them. 

Opening in bluff 

Devil's Chimney

 Stables are on site and guided tours on horseback can be taken. There is also a lodge and cabins for more conviences, restaurant which boasts the best fried chicken around, a bar and lounge. A gift shop, audio-video room and discovery corner for kids are also located within the park. Events are held year round, weather permitting, and again there's something for everyone! 

Small creek with Sandstone base

Small creek, slippery Sandstone when wet

Will you take a walk among the giants of Giant City State Park? 

Happy Hiking! 

Lake Barkley Kentucky

Canoeing Lake Barkley

 Lake Barkley

On a recent trip to my Aunt's in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina my husband and I went paddling down the French Broad River. We were hooked! Once home we immediately purchased a canoe, Old Town Sarnac XL and began our canoeing adventures. 

Blue skies over Barkley

For our first outing we chose a quite bay on Lake Barkley not to far from home. Now when we paddled the French Broad we used a John Boat while my Uncle and Step-Dad were in a canoe. I was prepared for the unsteadiness, my husband however was not. I got in first, my husband pushed the canoe out a bit further, and made his entry. Only he didn't sit down immediately and began commenting about how tipsy it was. We were less than three feet from shore and I was about to be dumped into two feet of water with a muddy bottom. I promptly threatened him (Ha!) and told him to sit down, which thankfully, he did. The remainder of the trip was very enjoyable and I knew I had found my new addiction. 

Paddling the bay 

One of the great things about living in Kentucky is it has the second most navigatable waterways in the nation, Alaska comes in first. Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley combine for over 3,300 mikes of shoreline, more than Lake Michigan. Kentucky Lake is actually the largest artificial lake east of the Mississippi River. There are plenty of bays to paddle and feeder creeks that drain into them. There is barge traffic and recreational boat traffic of all types, on both lakes so expect wakes. Staying in the bays lessens wakes from barges but recreational boats explore quite deeply into the bays during Summer pool. These lakes were formed by the daming of the Tennessee River and the Cumberland Rivers, respectively and are major transportation routes to the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. When the rivers flooded, creating the lakes, Land Between the Lakes was also formed. There is a sad and tragic side to the creation of the lakes, but I think an article by David Nickell tells it best, Land Between the Lakes: A Story of Colonialism in Kentucky.

Girls Canoe Day

 We spent many days marveling at the beauty, the wildlife, and the peace and quiet that surrounded us.  I couldn't count the number of deer we seen from the canoe, just yards away on the bank in the forest. I can tell you of the family of otters that we saw one morning. Playing along the shoreline and skillfully dodging us as we paddled near. Fishing from the canoe was amazing and we caught several kinds, large mouth bass, bluegill, and catfish. Watch out for the intrusive Asian carp, they tend to jump out of the water when frightened by motors so a nearby passing boat could stir the huge fish up.

Bridge in back of one of the many bays

It's quite easy finding a place to put your canoe or kayak in, public boat ramps, use areas, and campgrounds abound in Land Between the Lakes. Back country camping is allowed with permit and in almost any location aside from cemeteries of course. There are many roads that were flooded also and lead directly into the water, follow almost any road long enough and you'll find a bay to explore. There are also several small lakes contained in Land Between the Lakes, such as Energy Lake, Hematite and Honker Lakes. Recently the latter two have been unnavigable due to Lily Pads and invasive species.

I can't wait until Spring so we can get the Sarnac back out and explore more of Lake Barkley! I'm especially excited to explore a channel of the Cumberland River named for distant ancestors who once lived in the area.


Happy Paddling!!

Garden of the Gods - Shawnee National Forest

Fall Scene from Sandstone bluff 

 I've already covered this area in a previous blog but had numerous photos just to beautiful not to share. Sit back and enjoy the view! 

Fall at Garden of the Gods 

Obersvation deck

Camel Rock

Sandstone Bluffs

Sandstone Bluffs 

Scene from the trail

Links:

The Shawnee National Forest

Garden of the Gods

Safety Information

Trail Map

Rim Rock - Shawnee National Forest

Ox Lot Cave

Rim Rock

The Shawnee National Forest never ceases to amaze. This marvelous wonder of nature sits near Herod, IL. Just a few miles drive on Karber's Ridge Rd. down from Garden of the Gods awaits Rim Rock National Recreational Trail. 

The trail starts from the parking area, makes it way along a ridge with several scenic views, and comes to a landing for more vistas. This section of the trail is fairly easy to traverse and has a few benches to rest upon. Beyond this point it becomes a bit more strenuous. Wooden stairs lead down to narrow passages between towering rocks of sandstone covered in moss. 

Narrow passage with stone steps

Descending into Rim Rock

Boulders near landing

As you exit the passages that take you down to the forest floor you are presented a view that will take your breath away. Sandstone bluffs rise on both sides, a small creek meanders next to the far bluff, the forest is alive with birds chirping and squirrels scury about. Coming into view is Ox Lot Cave, used originally by Native Americans and later by settlers to shelter livestock, including oxen and horses used by loggers.

The trail continues past Ox Lot Cave and follows Rim Rock along the forest floor, providing stunning views all around. 

Fall Scene of Rim Rock from trail

Green moss makes amazing backdrop for Fall colors

View of Sandstone bluff opposite of Rim Rock

Continue on Rim Rock Trail and you come to an intersection. Straight over a small wooden foot bridge takes you along the Beaver Trail to Pounds Hollow where you'll find a very nice pay use camping area, lake with beach, and picnic areas. I camped there with family a few Summers ago and swam at the beach as a child which was pay use then and also rented paddle boats. The beach is now free but with no lifeguard on duty, swim at your own risk. There are limits for boating on the lake making for a more enjoyable experience all around. The area is patrolled by rangers and police regularly to enforce rules and laws which keeps the partying to a minimum and keeping it the family friendly outdoor experience everyone can enjoy.

View between Sandstone bluff and Rim Rock Trail

Rim Rock Trail near Beaver Trail intersection

Staying on trail, go right which keeps Rim Rock itself on your right. The trail continues through the canyon to a larger wooden foot bridge over a rocky creek bed. 

Wooden foot bridge

The trail passes over this bridge and continues back toward the parking area, sloping uphill. Several more smaller foot bridges dot the trail back up and out of the canyon. 

I've hiked this trail more times than I can remember and have numerous tales that I couldn't begin to fit in one blog. I will give you the highlights; Female cousin running near trail head, tripped, fell, and tumbled several yards downhill. Further down trail and this could have been very disastrous.

Another one of "good ol' Dad's" Army Mission hikes where it's either keep up or be left behind, we were always left behind. Only this time dark was approaching adding an extra bit of fear. Young, alone, and hiking the Shawnee in the pitch black. Clearly I survived but my city cousins and God-Sister may have been traumatized. Just kidding! 

 Hikes with our first family dog, pulling us through the forest at a record pace. To one of our last hikes with our friend and his young daughter who when told about the Native Americans in Ox Lot Cave insistied we all have Indian names. 

I strongly suggest planning an extended weekend stay camping at Pounds Hollow or booking a stay with Rim Rock's Dogwood Cabins, or for a even more unique stay check out Timber Ridge Outpost and sleep in a treehouse nestled in the forest canopy of the Shawnee Hills near Elizabethtown, IL. I will also advise don't expect to see all The Shawnee National Forest has to offer in one trip. I been exploring the area for years and still haven't seen it all or even come close to it. 

Happy Hiking! 

Cache River

Cache River, Section 8 Woods

Another gem of The Shawnee National Forest is the Cache River State Natural Area  near Cypress, IL. Bottom land created by glacial runoff created this ancient blackwater swamp. 

Old growth Cypress trees dot the swamp and provide refuge for an array of birds from Eagles, hawks, osprey, and woodpeckers just to name a few. There is a Wetland Center providing an educational experience the whole family can enjoy.

Cache River Wetland

There are several areas within this network of wetlands, Heron Pond near Belknap, IL in the  Little Black Slough Unit provides a boardwalk to explore the swamp and walk amongst the Cypress and Tupelo trees. 

The Lower Cache River Swamps between Karnak and Ullin, IL provides a paddle trail for canoers and kayakers to explore the swamp. Paddle past wildlife, enjoy a bit of birding, and be awe struck by the old growth Cypress trees. 

Section 8 Woods Boardwalk

Glass Hill Management Unit located just north of Cypress, IL boasts a high sandstone knob that is inaccessible and therefore has a realitivly undisturbed upland forest. 

There are 9 different hiking trails as well as a bike trail,  the aforementioned canoe trail and Wetlands Center. Events are hosted year round and include van tours to wildflower hikes.

View from boardwalk

Southern Illinois has some of the most diverse topography and wildlife in the country. You're sure to find a place you can enjoy or in my case many places! 

Happy Hiking! 

Ferne Clyffe State Park - Shawnee National Forest

Ferns grow from a cliff face

Ferne Clyffe State Park is nestled in the Shawnee Hills and just south of Goreville, IL off Route 37. Privately owned until 1949 when it was sold to the state, people have been enjoying the area long before then. Since as early as 1899 Ferne Clyffe has been an attraction for many. 

Eighteen different trails in varying length and difficulty provide an adventure for just about anyone. Horses are allowed on designated trails, there is camping, a lake for fishing, a seasonal waterfall and even areas for rock climbing and rappelling. 

Scene along Big Rocky Hollow Trail 

I have to say I wasn't aware of all the trails located here until I started this blog. I've hiked the area for years but only stuck to two main trails, the Big Rocky Hollow and High Ridge Trails. Further exploration is needed. 

Tree dividing the trail

The trails that stay below the ridge and falls are the least strenuous. The High Ridge Trail is more rugged and has a steep climb, any trail here is well worth the effort. The lower trails tend to be cooler in the Summer months providing an oasis from the heat and humidity.

Waterfall when dry from base

Picnic shelters and playgrounds abound in this family friendly park. Camping areas vary from modern, to primitive, and back country, offering something for everyone. Trails vary from .25 miles to 8 miles of the River to River Trail. There are even more trials on the adjoining Round Bluff Nature Preserve. 

Large boulder along trail

The beauty and wonder of the Shawnee has given yet another awe inspiring place. 

Happy Hiking!!!!

Forgotten Treasure, Teal Pond - Shawnee National Forest

Teal Pond

Teal Pond 

Just North of Bell Smith Springs off the winding gravel road that cuts through The Shawnee National Forest you'll find Teal Pond and a forgotten campground. Over grown, unkept, and being reclaimed by the forest this campground was once a well maintained pay use area. I can only assume, probably correctly, that budget cuts forced it's closure long ago. It was a shame to see in it's current state but nostalgia and Mother Nature made it easy to still find the beauty. 

Teal Pond 

As I've said in my previous blogs I spent a lot of time outdoors since I was a child and in S. IL that meant time in the National Forest, at least to us anyway. As dysfunctional as my family could be, isn't everyone's to some degree, this love for the outdoors that they taught me is the best lesson. I consider it a gift from my parents, the gift of a lifetime. One that is continually giving, amazing, and awe inspiring. 

The road through the campground

Somehow it had been decided we would go camping at this little hidden spot, away from the mainstream. My parents packed and loaded our gear and supplies into our old 70's model Vista Cruiser Station Wagon, with us two kids, and headed off for a extended weekend adventure. My brother and I were about 9 and 11 years old, respectively, and very excited about the trip. 

There weren't many others at the campground which we delighted in. More seclusion meant a better outdoor experience to us. Looking back there may have been a few reasons for the sparse occupancy of the campground. 

Bridge from campground to Teal Pond

The  first night my mom thought it would be funny to scare us kids and threw some chicken bones behind the little pup tent that my brother and I shared. She told us stories of mountain lions and bobcats around the fire, much like telling ghost stories. We didn't think much of moms tales till the next morning when we discovered our camp had been raided. Our food laid half eaten and strewn across the campsite. There were eggs busted, half eaten loaf of bread, and even the ketchup bottle had been chewed. The contents of our food stash was almost no more but for a few can goods and items from the bottom of the cooler. We also found paw prints behind our pup tent, big paw prints, from a large cat. Obviously we hadn't secured things very well and we had visitors in the form of raccoons and a bobcat. We could only assume the bobcat had scared off the raccoons midfeast and that had saved some of the food for us. I don't know why the bobcat then didn't eat what remained, maybe he too was scared off by someone stirring in their sleep. 

Not being ones to give up or scared by wildlife easy we decided to tough it out and then the rain came. Struggling to make fire, stay dry and stab open cans with a survival knife because Mom forgot the can opener we made it through the day. I think I remember my brother getting the cans open and catching a fish or two from the pond for supper while Dad fought to get and keep a fire going. 

 The rain continued into the night and must've gotten heavier at some point because the next thing I remember was Mom waking us up in the middle of the night. We were sleeping in almost 2" of water, our own pool in the pup tent. She rushed us over to the Vista Cruiser and we slept in the back storage area with the back seats folded down for more room. My parents shared the front seat, we spent the night sleeping and drying out once the thunder and lighting subsided. 

Dogwood in campground area

The next day we decided again to stay and tough it out and I do mean we, as a family we voted. Making a fire was nearly impossible, and we were all now resigned to camp in the Station Wagon or share the very large tent my parents used. We hung our things up to dry as best we could, and as I began changing in my parents tent when a leak started directly over my head in a corner. I proceeded to have a little meltdown, at 9 years old I had apparently reached my limit with my patience for Mother Nature. My family found it amusing, and I see now that they were only laughing because what good was crying going to do? The concept took me a few years to figure out growing up but it's now second nature to me. 

Levy wall next to Teal Pond

We spent one more night, all under the canopy of my parents tent, and away from the leaky corner. Thankfully it was an uneventful night, we packed up the next day and headed home without incident. It would have been easy to quit and come home after our food was raided, but we weren't ready to give up and I'm glad we didn't despite the set backs. What kind of memory and story would that had made? Toughing it out against the odds and finding away to make things worked is how we lived, not just how we camped. Smile in the face of adversity and if nothing else you'll have an amazing memory to recall. This is another fond memory for my family and I, we now recall it and laugh till we cry sometimes.

If you venture over to Bell Smith Springs take the time to stop at Teal Pond, cast a line, take a stroll, have a picnic as we did, or you can still camp even, just back country style now. I recommend securing your food though and leave no bones behind the tent! 

Happy Camping and Hiking!!!