Land Between The Lakes Kentucky

Sunset on Kentucky Lake

Land Between The Lakes National Recreation Area

You're gonna here me talk a lot about Land Between the Lakes, it's beautiful and minutes from my home. I couldn't count the outings I've had in this land peninsula between Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley. Over 170,000 acres, 300 miles of shoreline, 500 miles of trails for hiking, biking, horse back riding,  and off-roading. A lot to explore! 

Two of many creeks in the area

On any given weekend you can find me cruising the back roads, camping, fishing, canoeing, or hiking the National Recreation Area, known locally as LBL. 

One of the many back roads

Wildflowers abound in Spring and no matter the season so does the wildlife. See Turkey, Foxes, two different Deer species, Eagles, and even take a cruise through the Elk & Bison Prairie.

LBL Wildlife

There are many camping areas from modern pay use to back country, that's my style! Just don't expect to find cabin

restaurants, or lodges. Facilities are basic outside the Woodlands Nature Station, Golden Pond Visitor's Center and Planetarium, or the Welcome Stations located the the North and South entrances. Modern amenities can be found in the numerous towns, resorts, and lodges surrounding LBL.

Many roads lead straight to the water.
One of several streams cross the back roads.

I remember one occasion where we were cruising the back roads with friends in two separate Jeep Cherokees when one began having alternator troubles causing the battery to die. We ended up swapping the batteries back and forth, using the Jeep with the good alternator to recharge the batteries. No one wants to leave a vehicle behind and/or complete repairs in the middle of no where.

There are also a lot of places there is no cell phone reception either. This me of another story. My husband and I were cruising the back roads and came upon a camouflage truck parked off the side of the road. We thought nothing of it, till we came back out the same road and saw a man in camo with a gun and dog. Okay, a hunter, we thought. He was in the middle of the road though and clearly trying to get us to stop. Once stopped, my husband rolled down his window and the man wanted to use a cell phone but neither of us had any reception. He told us he had lost his keys in the woods while hunting and had no spare. This strange man then wanted to ride with us in our regular cab truck with his dog and gun. Needless to say we weren't comfortable with that but didn't want to leave him stranded. Oddly he inquired hold cold it was supposed to get that night, which we advised into the 30's. We offered to call someone for him once we had a signal, he gave us the name of a friend, Edgar, and his number. He advised us to call Edgar, tell him where he, Moe, was and his situation. Edgar was supposed to have a spare key to his truck. We bid Moe farewell and assured him we would call Edgar. Once back toward the Trace, the main highway through LBL, we called Edgar but got his voicemail. My husband left a message detailing Moe's situation and location.

We arrived home and worried More would be left in LBL and thought my husband would have to return for him. Edgar finally called back and asked for more details. When advised of the situation Edgar told my husband he had bought Moe a GPS because he had gotten lost for several days in LBL before, but guessed that didn't help him find his keys. My husband made sure Edgar would be able to locate Moe and wished him luck.

There are a lot of lessons in both tales and I can't help but find some humor also. I will leave you to take what you want from them, and hope you get to explore this beautiful area!


Happy Hiking!  

Lake Barkley Kentucky

Canoeing Lake Barkley

 Lake Barkley

On a recent trip to my Aunt's in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina my husband and I went paddling down the French Broad River. We were hooked! Once home we immediately purchased a canoe, Old Town Sarnac XL and began our canoeing adventures. 

Blue skies over Barkley

For our first outing we chose a quite bay on Lake Barkley not to far from home. Now when we paddled the French Broad we used a John Boat while my Uncle and Step-Dad were in a canoe. I was prepared for the unsteadiness, my husband however was not. I got in first, my husband pushed the canoe out a bit further, and made his entry. Only he didn't sit down immediately and began commenting about how tipsy it was. We were less than three feet from shore and I was about to be dumped into two feet of water with a muddy bottom. I promptly threatened him (Ha!) and told him to sit down, which thankfully, he did. The remainder of the trip was very enjoyable and I knew I had found my new addiction. 

Paddling the bay 

One of the great things about living in Kentucky is it has the second most navigatable waterways in the nation, Alaska comes in first. Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley combine for over 3,300 mikes of shoreline, more than Lake Michigan. Kentucky Lake is actually the largest artificial lake east of the Mississippi River. There are plenty of bays to paddle and feeder creeks that drain into them. There is barge traffic and recreational boat traffic of all types, on both lakes so expect wakes. Staying in the bays lessens wakes from barges but recreational boats explore quite deeply into the bays during Summer pool. These lakes were formed by the daming of the Tennessee River and the Cumberland Rivers, respectively and are major transportation routes to the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers. When the rivers flooded, creating the lakes, Land Between the Lakes was also formed. There is a sad and tragic side to the creation of the lakes, but I think an article by David Nickell tells it best, Land Between the Lakes: A Story of Colonialism in Kentucky.

Girls Canoe Day

 We spent many days marveling at the beauty, the wildlife, and the peace and quiet that surrounded us.  I couldn't count the number of deer we seen from the canoe, just yards away on the bank in the forest. I can tell you of the family of otters that we saw one morning. Playing along the shoreline and skillfully dodging us as we paddled near. Fishing from the canoe was amazing and we caught several kinds, large mouth bass, bluegill, and catfish. Watch out for the intrusive Asian carp, they tend to jump out of the water when frightened by motors so a nearby passing boat could stir the huge fish up.

Bridge in back of one of the many bays

It's quite easy finding a place to put your canoe or kayak in, public boat ramps, use areas, and campgrounds abound in Land Between the Lakes. Back country camping is allowed with permit and in almost any location aside from cemeteries of course. There are many roads that were flooded also and lead directly into the water, follow almost any road long enough and you'll find a bay to explore. There are also several small lakes contained in Land Between the Lakes, such as Energy Lake, Hematite and Honker Lakes. Recently the latter two have been unnavigable due to Lily Pads and invasive species.

I can't wait until Spring so we can get the Sarnac back out and explore more of Lake Barkley! I'm especially excited to explore a channel of the Cumberland River named for distant ancestors who once lived in the area.


Happy Paddling!!

Garden of the Gods - Shawnee National Forest

Fall Scene from Sandstone bluff 

 I've already covered this area in a previous blog but had numerous photos just to beautiful not to share. Sit back and enjoy the view! 

Fall at Garden of the Gods 

Obersvation deck

Camel Rock

Sandstone Bluffs

Sandstone Bluffs 

Scene from the trail

Links:

The Shawnee National Forest

Garden of the Gods

Safety Information

Trail Map

The Shawnee National Forest-Bell Smith Springs

Devil's Backbone 

Bell Smith Springs

The Shawnee National Forest  yet again provides us with another wonder of Mother Nature's beauty and power. Nestled in the Hidden Springs Ranger District this area is a National Natural Land Mark, as it should be. The topography of Southern Illinois and its trademark sandstone bluffs, hoodoos, gluches, and canyons afforded us another awe inspiring spot. 

Located just East of Eddyville, IL off Highway 145 and down winding back roads sits Bell Smith Springs. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of, well..pretty much everything. Eddyville is a tiny town that only had a poplutaion of 98 citizens in 2013, so even the closest populace isn't much for hustle and bustle. 

Main stairs to trails

Bell Smith Springs has 8 Miles of trails over rugged, and sometimes strenuous terrian. Several creeks meander through, over, and around the sandstone rocks. This does cause them to be very slippery and washes out some of the trails on occasion, as was on my visit last Spring. I suggest keeping a trail map handy to stay on course. General area trails total 1.5 miles, the Natural Bridge Trail and Sentry Bluff trail are the most rugged of those I've hiked, which only excludes the Mill Branch Trail. 

View a long General Area Trail

Sentry Bluff Trail earns its name from the bluff the trail skirts along. Rocks, roots, and other obstacles make for unsure footing and a rough hike but is well worth the 3.2 miles around the bluff. 

General Area & Natural Bridge Trail

The Natural Bridge Trail requires a stream crossing that can be tricky during higher water levels. After crossing the stream, some ways up the trail, you must climb a type iron ladder secured into the sandstone, to access the Natural Bridge and remaining trail. 

The last time I attempted this hike I was 17 years old with my slightly older cousin and her boyfriend, now husband. We were led by my father who always seemed to be on an Army Mission, leading his troops at a blistering pace. Keep up or be left behind, and we were on several occasions, including this one. The creek was swollen making the crossing tricky and after nearly falling a few times I made it across. Now thoughly wet from mid thigh down, we trek onward till we come to the "ladder". No sign of good ol dad, guess he climbed the ladder, and so wet feet and all we climbed up. 

We found ourselves at the Natural Arch, so we messed around for a bit exploring and drying out. No idea where "dad" is, either way ahead on the trail or eaten by a wild animal. Not wasting any more time we hiked the remainder of the trail, which I don't remember much of. I figure either stress or trauma erased it from my mind. Dad was found resting and hydrating at the trailhead. 

Sandstone bluff and view from Sentry Bluff trail, looking toward Natural Bridge Trail. 

The Spring of 2014 I finally returned to Bell Smith Springs after nearly 20 years absence. The wonder and beauty of the place hadn't changed. The trails felt a not as long as I remembered and the stairs less daunting than before.  The terrain was as rugged as ever though, but I guess that's what gives it it's beauty. Time may have gotten away from me, enjoying my youth and starting my own life as an adult, but it hasn't gotten away from in my middle age. Now more than ever appreciate nature and seek it's refuge often. 

No, the experience I had as a teen didn't leave my in fear of nature or with any distaste for it. Nature was and is my second home. You just have to accept nature, and people, as they are and just deal with it. The thing is, I've learned to still have fun along the way and this story is a fond memory for me. 

Happy Hiking! 

Garden of the Gods - Shawnee National Forest

Sandstone Bluffs

Trail to Observation Deck

Camel Rock

One last mention for the day. Another place nestled in the Shawnee National Forest, Garden of the Gods. This beautiful topography was started during the Carboniferous period, and later uplifted forming high sandstone bluffs. Dramtic erosion created hoodoos or unusual formations, such as Table Rock, Camel Rock, and Devil's Smokestack.
These high bluffs offer views for miles from their ridges and striking forefront to a beautiful scene. The sandstone surface can be very slippery, making for a treacherous hike or climb when wet. Many have been air lifted from the cracks and crevices of Garden of the Gods, so I urge caution if you visit.
The Obersvastion Trail offers an easy walk around the high open sandstone bluffs and hoodoos. Mostly paved with flag stone and a distance of only 1/4 mile this trail can easily be traversed by the less cable.
Trials such as Indian Point also offer a scenic overlook with a trail that has you hiking along a rocky bluff that contains small caves and crevices. This trail is much longer and more rugged. The River to River trail can also be access from Garden of the Gods and a portion can be hiked from here. The full scope of the that trail will be covered in a future post. Many other small trails interconnect and total approx. 5.5 miles of hiking and horse trails combined.
Camping, picnicing, hiking, backpacking and horseback riding are all afforded in this little gem near Herod, IL. Take 34 to Karbers Ridge Rd. and enjoy!
www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/shawnee/recreation

Happy Hiking!