Garden of the Gods - Shawnee National Forest

Fall Scene from Sandstone bluff 

 I've already covered this area in a previous blog but had numerous photos just to beautiful not to share. Sit back and enjoy the view! 

Fall at Garden of the Gods 

Obersvation deck

Camel Rock

Sandstone Bluffs

Sandstone Bluffs 

Scene from the trail

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The Shawnee National Forest

Garden of the Gods

Safety Information

Trail Map

Rim Rock - Shawnee National Forest

Ox Lot Cave

Rim Rock

The Shawnee National Forest never ceases to amaze. This marvelous wonder of nature sits near Herod, IL. Just a few miles drive on Karber's Ridge Rd. down from Garden of the Gods awaits Rim Rock National Recreational Trail. 

The trail starts from the parking area, makes it way along a ridge with several scenic views, and comes to a landing for more vistas. This section of the trail is fairly easy to traverse and has a few benches to rest upon. Beyond this point it becomes a bit more strenuous. Wooden stairs lead down to narrow passages between towering rocks of sandstone covered in moss. 

Narrow passage with stone steps

Descending into Rim Rock

Boulders near landing

As you exit the passages that take you down to the forest floor you are presented a view that will take your breath away. Sandstone bluffs rise on both sides, a small creek meanders next to the far bluff, the forest is alive with birds chirping and squirrels scury about. Coming into view is Ox Lot Cave, used originally by Native Americans and later by settlers to shelter livestock, including oxen and horses used by loggers.

The trail continues past Ox Lot Cave and follows Rim Rock along the forest floor, providing stunning views all around. 

Fall Scene of Rim Rock from trail

Green moss makes amazing backdrop for Fall colors

View of Sandstone bluff opposite of Rim Rock

Continue on Rim Rock Trail and you come to an intersection. Straight over a small wooden foot bridge takes you along the Beaver Trail to Pounds Hollow where you'll find a very nice pay use camping area, lake with beach, and picnic areas. I camped there with family a few Summers ago and swam at the beach as a child which was pay use then and also rented paddle boats. The beach is now free but with no lifeguard on duty, swim at your own risk. There are limits for boating on the lake making for a more enjoyable experience all around. The area is patrolled by rangers and police regularly to enforce rules and laws which keeps the partying to a minimum and keeping it the family friendly outdoor experience everyone can enjoy.

View between Sandstone bluff and Rim Rock Trail

Rim Rock Trail near Beaver Trail intersection

Staying on trail, go right which keeps Rim Rock itself on your right. The trail continues through the canyon to a larger wooden foot bridge over a rocky creek bed. 

Wooden foot bridge

The trail passes over this bridge and continues back toward the parking area, sloping uphill. Several more smaller foot bridges dot the trail back up and out of the canyon. 

I've hiked this trail more times than I can remember and have numerous tales that I couldn't begin to fit in one blog. I will give you the highlights; Female cousin running near trail head, tripped, fell, and tumbled several yards downhill. Further down trail and this could have been very disastrous.

Another one of "good ol' Dad's" Army Mission hikes where it's either keep up or be left behind, we were always left behind. Only this time dark was approaching adding an extra bit of fear. Young, alone, and hiking the Shawnee in the pitch black. Clearly I survived but my city cousins and God-Sister may have been traumatized. Just kidding! 

 Hikes with our first family dog, pulling us through the forest at a record pace. To one of our last hikes with our friend and his young daughter who when told about the Native Americans in Ox Lot Cave insistied we all have Indian names. 

I strongly suggest planning an extended weekend stay camping at Pounds Hollow or booking a stay with Rim Rock's Dogwood Cabins, or for a even more unique stay check out Timber Ridge Outpost and sleep in a treehouse nestled in the forest canopy of the Shawnee Hills near Elizabethtown, IL. I will also advise don't expect to see all The Shawnee National Forest has to offer in one trip. I been exploring the area for years and still haven't seen it all or even come close to it. 

Happy Hiking! 

The Shawnee National Forest-Bell Smith Springs

Devil's Backbone 

Bell Smith Springs

The Shawnee National Forest  yet again provides us with another wonder of Mother Nature's beauty and power. Nestled in the Hidden Springs Ranger District this area is a National Natural Land Mark, as it should be. The topography of Southern Illinois and its trademark sandstone bluffs, hoodoos, gluches, and canyons afforded us another awe inspiring spot. 

Located just East of Eddyville, IL off Highway 145 and down winding back roads sits Bell Smith Springs. Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of, well..pretty much everything. Eddyville is a tiny town that only had a poplutaion of 98 citizens in 2013, so even the closest populace isn't much for hustle and bustle. 

Main stairs to trails

Bell Smith Springs has 8 Miles of trails over rugged, and sometimes strenuous terrian. Several creeks meander through, over, and around the sandstone rocks. This does cause them to be very slippery and washes out some of the trails on occasion, as was on my visit last Spring. I suggest keeping a trail map handy to stay on course. General area trails total 1.5 miles, the Natural Bridge Trail and Sentry Bluff trail are the most rugged of those I've hiked, which only excludes the Mill Branch Trail. 

View a long General Area Trail

Sentry Bluff Trail earns its name from the bluff the trail skirts along. Rocks, roots, and other obstacles make for unsure footing and a rough hike but is well worth the 3.2 miles around the bluff. 

General Area & Natural Bridge Trail

The Natural Bridge Trail requires a stream crossing that can be tricky during higher water levels. After crossing the stream, some ways up the trail, you must climb a type iron ladder secured into the sandstone, to access the Natural Bridge and remaining trail. 

The last time I attempted this hike I was 17 years old with my slightly older cousin and her boyfriend, now husband. We were led by my father who always seemed to be on an Army Mission, leading his troops at a blistering pace. Keep up or be left behind, and we were on several occasions, including this one. The creek was swollen making the crossing tricky and after nearly falling a few times I made it across. Now thoughly wet from mid thigh down, we trek onward till we come to the "ladder". No sign of good ol dad, guess he climbed the ladder, and so wet feet and all we climbed up. 

We found ourselves at the Natural Arch, so we messed around for a bit exploring and drying out. No idea where "dad" is, either way ahead on the trail or eaten by a wild animal. Not wasting any more time we hiked the remainder of the trail, which I don't remember much of. I figure either stress or trauma erased it from my mind. Dad was found resting and hydrating at the trailhead. 

Sandstone bluff and view from Sentry Bluff trail, looking toward Natural Bridge Trail. 

The Spring of 2014 I finally returned to Bell Smith Springs after nearly 20 years absence. The wonder and beauty of the place hadn't changed. The trails felt a not as long as I remembered and the stairs less daunting than before.  The terrain was as rugged as ever though, but I guess that's what gives it it's beauty. Time may have gotten away from me, enjoying my youth and starting my own life as an adult, but it hasn't gotten away from in my middle age. Now more than ever appreciate nature and seek it's refuge often. 

No, the experience I had as a teen didn't leave my in fear of nature or with any distaste for it. Nature was and is my second home. You just have to accept nature, and people, as they are and just deal with it. The thing is, I've learned to still have fun along the way and this story is a fond memory for me. 

Happy Hiking!