The Natchez Trace Parkway-Tennessee

Sign for the Old Trace Walk along the Natchez Trace

The Natchez Trace Parkway

     Ready for yet another adventure my husband, Donald, and I scoured Google Maps looking for the perfect place. Just Southeast of Nashville, Tennessee Donald found David Crockett State Park and as it turns out, if routed correctly we could travel part of The Natchez Trace Parkway. Alright a great scenic drive on our way down to hike in David Crockett I thought. 

   Honestly my back and hips had been killing me lately, I wasn't sure if I was up for several hours in the car, let alone hiking. Lots of icing and hot baths over several days and I finally felt like I could manage, although how much remained to be seen. I was feeling reluctant to make the trip but had already committed and I'm a woman of my word, come hell or high water. 

   Feeling better I finally started researching The Natchez Trace and stumble upon an amazing site, Natchez Trace Travel. Clicking around through the site one can plan their entire trip, from traveling the entire 444 miles from Natchez, Mississippi to Nashville, Tennessee or by traveling sections at a time which we did. An interactive map highlights points of interests and "hot spots" or places of high interest along the way. History and nature collide on this National Scenic Byway which is maintained by the National Park System. 

    I was finally excited about our trip and quickly began using the interactive map on Natchez Trace Travel to learn about the history and discern which stops were in the portion we were traveling as well as which stops we wanted to make. Spreadsheet, I had to have a spreadsheet! There were so many and all carefully detailed, even the mile marker noted! 

    American History has always been one of my favorite subjects, since grade school I devoured anything under the subject and my interest has only grown with my age. Nature, of course, has always been a big part of my life, ever growing from family requirement to an interest and place of solace to a passion and devotion. Being able to combine the two is an awesome adventure to me. 

    Early, I mean EARLY, on a Saturday morning we headed South leaving the state of Kentucky and making our way down to Tennessee. It was dark; so dark there was no horizon, it was cold, and everyone was tired except for Kennedy, our Jack Russell Terrier mix. Donald and I both couldn't wait for the Sun to come up so we could see something other than what the car headlights would allow. 

   When the Sun finally did come up it was blinding as we traveled toward it and Nashville but I at least felt like I wasn't traveling on the Moon any longer. The terrain was much hillier, almost mountainous as we closed in our target. We picked up The Natchez Trace Parkway near an area called Kinderhook, south of Leiper's Fork  and around mile post 410. The Natchez Trace actually starts in Natchez, Mississippi so the miles go up as you head toward Nashville or down for vice versa. 

  The first stop on our list was Water Valley Overlook, a scenic overlook with a picnic area. We reach our target around 9 a.m., there was still a heavy chill in the air, and patchy fog slowly lifting from the low lying areas. Foliage forecast had predicated that we would be arriving during peak colors for the northern section.

View from Water Valley Overlook

  We couldn't have scripted better weather or colors for our day on The Natchez Trace. The Sun was shining, there was a bit of a cool breeze, and the colors were magnificent. Water Valley Overlook was stunning, the hills of the countryside laid out before us, green and brown fields border with rows of trees made a patchwork of the valley floor. Ponds with wisps of fog rising from their waters sat nestled among the steep forested hillsides of greens, reds, oranges, and rust colored hues. Thick patches of fog hovered above the trees in the recesses of the hilly terrain. Farmhouses, barns, and livestock completed the picturesque scene. 

  After stretching our legs a bit and taking the beauty of the first stop we made our way down to Baker's Bluff Overlook. Another stunning scene as described above was laid before our eyes. 

View from Baker's Bluff Overlook

    Large white Cows bellowed below us, their calls echoing up to us off the hills. We meandered around and found a trail that lead to Jackson Falls which was our next stop on the list 1/3 of a mile away. Donald prodded me to take the trail and after snapping a few pics I joined him near the trail head. A sign immediately warned "Steep Incline", all one simply had to do was look past the sign to see you were literally going to be face to face with the ground as you ascended. Nope, no thank you. I quickly shook my head and turned around. I don't mind hiking in the least bit but when I'm going have to claw my way up, you can forget it. I advised Donald we could just drive, if I remembered correctly and cut out a large portion of the death by mountain style hike. He and Kennedy rejoined me at the car and we drove to Jackson Falls.
   Jackson Falls provided a bit of an overlook, most of the view being blocked by trees and foliage. There was another picnic area and another trail head down to Jackson Falls as I had suspected. We trekked our way down a concrete sidewalk along the steep hillside. Navigating over a small wash with a wooden bridge and further down too the foot of Jackson Falls. Unfortunately much of Tennessee is experiencing the same drought conditions that Kentucky is and there was very little water flowing over the falls.

Jackson Falls

   What water was flowing echoed off the high stone bluffs that surrounded us, green moss still clung to the rocks along the creek, the leaves were a kaleidoscope of colors against the sky and Earth. We milled about, I taking pictures, Donald and Kennedy exploring. A bench sat just off the creek, facing the falls so we took advantage and soaked up the sounds of the forest and the trickling water, all deliciously devoid of human noises.

View from the bench at Jackson Falls

   The bad part about descending is usually you must ascend at sometime or another. For us it was obvious as we trekked down that would be our path back up and I knew it was going to suck. Despite knowing that I had gone down, now I had to go up. I have been working on my inclines, trying to keep my posture correct while traversing them and thereby hopefully reducing any low back pain. All in all, it wasn't too horrible, a few craps, some huffing and puffing, and I was back at the car.

The not so steep section down to Jackson Falls

    Next stop was one of my favorites, Old Trace Walk, where you can actually walk a portion of the original Trace. The Old Natchez Trace dates back to the 1700's when sections were animal or Indian trails.

Sign at the trail head

     Here we strolled down the sunken path worn by many before us hundreds of years before. The Autumn colors abounded as the Sun peered through the forest canopy at us. Leaves crunched under our feet as we retraced the steps of so many along The Natchez Trace. On our way back we came to a spot where the birds were chirping loudly and squirrels were milling about the branches. We stopped a moment, took a seat upon a downed tree and just took in the forests sounds. Suddenly a Chipmunk jumped out just 20 feet down the path and darted across the forest floor. We watched for a few minutes as he darted in and out of the downed leaves on the forest floor before taking our leave.

Section of Old Trace Walk

     A large expanse of undulating forest spread out before us at Swan Overlook, dotted with the water tower for the town of Hohenwald. Hills, splashed with the varying colors of Autumn, that rolled till they smacked right up against the horizon.

Swan Overlook

       Fall Hollow Falls awaited us next and I hoped it wouldn't be as dry as Jackson Falls had been, nor as steep. We pulled into the parking area and headed down a dirt path,  that lead to a wooden bridge over a small stream. The sound of the falls was apparent as we headed down the path. After crossing over the bridge the trail turned, becoming muddy at times and made it's way to a wooden observation area overlooking the falls.

Fall Hollow Falls

     We took the time to snap a few pictures before an older couple joined us. After making small talk we made our way back to our vehicles and as we began to pull out the man held up a drink, offering it to us. We politely waved off his offer, being well prepared. It can be some distance for fuel, food, water or lodging along The Natchez Trace so his offer was understandable, although not needed, but very much appreciated. It was nice to see such consideration from a complete stranger we hadn't spoken to for more than 10 minutes.
     The Natchez Trace Parkway is like any other road, requiring maintenance and upkeep. Current maintenance meant that a portion of the parkway was closed. We had hoped it had been completed prior to our arrival but we hadn't been so lucky. There was a marked detour and I did print off the map so there was no issue getting around the closure.
     Highway 20 intersects with The Natchez Trace and here you will find the death and burial site of Meriwether Lewis. A pioneer cemetery with a monument of a lone broken shaft reaching toward the sky to commemorate the historic figure. An old pioneer log cabin sits, abandoned, a shuttered site for information. More portions of the Old Trace can be walked here as well as the site of the homestead where Lewis met his demise.
 

Pioneer Cemetery

      Our next stop was Metal Ford and Buffalo River, the historical site where pioneers forded the cold waters of the Buffalo River and former home to Steele's Iron Works. A charcoal burning furnace was used on site to manufacture pig iron, though there are no remnants. We strolled the little trail that followed the shore of the Buffalo River, it's babble ever present. The little trail eventually turned and went down into a dry channel once used to funnel water off the river for the furnace. The channel walls were only 8 to 10' in height and it's floor lined with dry leaves of the season's colors. We followed the path back to it's start and explored a little more before taking our leave.

Buffalo River

   The final item on our list was Old Trace Drive, where one can drive a 2.5 mile portion of the original route. I was a little nervous about taking my Malibu down this drive but after talking to a few others who had driven it on motorcycles I had little worry. It wound it's way through the woods, brilliant from Autumn's brush. There were several spots providing scenic views to the surrounding hills full of yet more Fall splendor. It's certainly a must if you ever find yourself along the Natchez Trace.

Old Trace Drive

   Back out on The Natchez Trace the remaining five miles we soaked in the beauty every second we could. Donald nor I wanted to leave it behind us but a new adventure laid ahead in David Crockett State Park.  We arrived to find a 5K race going on and people everywhere. Navigating back through the park was difficult, with runners, hikers and other traffic dotting the way like an obstacle course. It was quickly decided to abandon our original plan to hike to the falls and instead we drove up and parked nearby. Parking wasn't easy either, the circular lot was full of cars and people. I managed to find an empty slot and parked.
  It was a simple stroll to David Crockett Falls, several people were playing and wading in the stream. I hurried down to the shoreline, snapped several pictures and then dashed back to the car eager to get away from the onslaught of humans after a tranquil morning of virtual solitude.

Crockett Falls

    We had decided to take advantage of the the pet friendly dining area at the restaurant in the park, Crockett's Mill. Donald and Kennedy took a seat in the outdoor dining area while I went and let the staff know our wishes. We were quickly accommodated with silverware and menus being brought out to our table, the waitress even served Kennedy a bowl of fresh water. The food was okay, nothing to write home about, but was nice to see a sit down restaurant with a pet friendly option.
   It was time to start making our way back toward the hotel we had reserved a room at. I had chosen a different route to return along, Highway 13. As it turns out, it was a Scenic byway through mountainous terrain with winding curves and steep hills. It was a beautiful drive through the scenic Tennessee countryside.
  By the time we made it to our hotel we had been on and off the road for 10 hours and I couldn't tell you how many miles we had logged. Everyone was definitely ready to be out of the car for more than a few minutes at time. Our hiking plans for the day had been thwarted so we sat down and did a little more research for where we could hike that was en-route home.
  We quickly found Big Sandy Wildlife Refuge, it was still open for another couple weeks and had a trail that interested us. Plans were made to be up early again the following morning and with Daylight Savings Time ending, we got plenty of rest.
   Another couple hours of driving had us landing in the Big Sandy Refuge where we made use of Bennett's Observation deck on our way back towards the trail head. Ducks, geese and even American Pelicans could be spied along the shores of the Tennessee River.
   Gingerly driving down dusty gravel roads we pulled into the trail head parking only to find that the trail was closed for hunting season. Disappointing to say the least, we had saw no notice on the website but definitely didn't want to be accidentally shot by someone game hunting. I turned the car around and we drove the remaining distance back home.

Bennett's Observation Deck

   I fell in love with the Natchez Trace while there and despite any other disappointments in our adventure it was more than worthwhile to explore such a gem in the heart of Tennessee. Next time I travel the Parkway I hope to be completing the remaining miles in Alabama and Mississippi.
  It's important not to let little setbacks and disappointments overshadow something that was so spectacular. In today's world it's easier to look towards the negatives but I choose to dwell in the light of the positives and revel in my experiences, good or bad.

Adventure Awaits!
 




    
     

   







 

 

Exploring Reelfoot Lake

Exploring Reelfoot Lake

     Earlier this Spring I visited the Discovery Park of America in Union City, Tn with my husband, Donald, and my parents. We followed a recommendation to make the drive to the area of Reelfoot Lake and dine at Boyette's Dinning Room. Well it was definitely worth it! The scenic drive and eats had my husband and I vowing to return. 

    Finally late this Summer a plan was hatched to return for an overnight stay in local lodging and to explore what Reelfoot Lake really had to offer for outdoor adventures. I did some research on the local resorts and Inns before deciding on a little place called simply enough Reelfoot Lake Inn. We didn't need anything fancy, just somewhere to rest up with our pooch, Kennedy, before heading out for more explorations. 

    We headed first to Grassy Island and made a stop at the U.S Fish & Wildlife Visitor's Center. I headed inside for maps and info while Donald explored the grounds with Kennedy. Inside I found the attendant very helpful and informative. I was elated to find maps for several canoe trails but when I asked about hiking I was informed there was only one on the refuge with hiking not recommended this time of year due to bugs. "Okay, bugs?" I thought quietly to myself, I've dealt with their kind before and came armed with a full can off Deep Woods Off. After conversing a bit longer than I should have (that's me!) I used the facilities and headed out to regroup with my pack. 

    Donald had found a wide gravel path located on the backside of the parking lot and we decided to stretch our legs on it. It seemed it was a little informative trail leading back through tall meadows which were hemmed off near the trail with a mowed area allowing one to stroll without the meadow infringing on you. The path lead back to a small pond with  a small wooden deck of questionable durability overlooking it and an information kiosk about the importance of farm ponds just off the path. It was cute, scenic, and it was quiet but there was no wildlife to be seen so after a few pictures we headed back to the car. 

    Loaded up, we headed further into Grassy Island taking the Auto Tour. As we made our way back towards an observation deck we spied the hiking trail, appropriately named, Grassy Island Hiking Trail, and we just had to stop. We didn't plan to hike very far, just another little stroll to explore the trail a bit so I left my pack in the trunk. Strolling just fifty feet down a little boardwalk at the start of the trail we were inundated by mosquitoes, the likes of which I've never seen! I've hiked in swamps and have never had so many swarm onto me at one time! We immediately did an about face and high tailed it back to the car, swatting 20 mosquitoes away with one wave of an arm. I loaded in the dog as fast as possible then waved off another attack before getting myself back into the drivers seat. We had managed to only let a couple in and those were quickly shooed out. That lady wasn't playing around!! No hiking till after first frost in the Reelfoot Lake area!

Grassy Island Hiking Trail

  The a/c cranking I piloted us down Grassy Island further to the observation deck. Layering on more Off we heard thunder off in the distance and quickly made our way down the boardwalk. The darkening sky looming in the background of the observation deck we still took the time to snap photos, ooohhh and awe at the lily pads, impressive view and astounding Cypress trees before retreating back to the car again.

Grassy Island Observation Deck

    The wind picked up as I turned the car around and as we headed back down the Auto Tour Route the trees shook angrily in the wind their leaves falling about the car as we went. Finally the rain began to fall, I fully expected a full on down pour for hours but it only lasted a couple miles before it petered out to a few sporadic drops. By the time we reached the main highway the wind had subsided but the skies remained gray.

   As we turned south and made our way toward Reelfoot Lake State Park & Visitor's Center the skies remained menacing and the rain drops sporadic. We pulled into a boat ramp area to explore but found only a sculpture of a Blue Gill an old boat slip and ramp. Rain still smattering the windshield we decided to head down to the hotel, get checked in, get our bags unloaded and see what the weather was going to do.

    Finding the Reelfoot Lake Inn wasn't hard, it was located right off the main highway, a series of five small buildings, directly across from the lake with a field of chest high soybeans located behind it. Honestly the lodging was such a horrible experience I'd rather just skip discussing it but it deserves to be told to a degree. Cleanliness was lacking to such a level I went and purchased disinfectant spray and wipes, along with pillows, the ones provided were less than pancake thickness and we'd forgotten to bring our own. My card had already been charged, I didn't want to argue and fight to get credited back plus I wasn't sure if anyone else would take us with Kennedy on last minute notice. I had such a hard time finding some where that would accommodate a 17 pound Jack Russell mix to begin with. Insane pet fees combined with rules not allowing my canine kid to sleep with us as usual had landed us where we were. The linens were clean, the floor had been freshly mopped but other areas had clearly been skipped over so we relegated ourselves to waiting till we got home to shower, doing a little light cleaning ourselves and making sure things were germ free.

   We did manage to head over to Reelfoot Lake State Park and took a walk along the boardwalk trail that borders the lake. There were many people about enjoying the late Summer season but we found everyone to be extremely friendly. The boardwalk trail made its way through overgrown lowland areas before turning towards the lake and as the boardwalk turne

d again to follow the lake shore we were now walking among the knobby knees of the Cypress trees. The weather had cleared off and it was a beautiful afternoon although still humid. We made our way down the boardwalk passing people headed the opposite direction as we went and Kennedy had to smell every single one of them. There's not much option on a boardwalk, all I could do was let him sniff as we passed. We found an observation area and took advantage of it by snapping some pictures and soaking up a breeze off the lake before reluctantly finishing our boardwalk hike. It's definitely a must if you're ever in the area. The state park also offers guided Pontoon boat tours.

Boardwalk at Reelfoot State Park

   Boyette's Dining Room does carry-out so that's exactly what we did. We took our loot of hot Southern home cooking back to our meager accommodations. The plan was to refuel, crash out early and wake up with plenty of time to get to the Western shore for the sunrise. Our meal did it's job, with our bellies full and a slightly cleaner room we settled in for a little television while trying to slip off into slumber. We soon realized the mattress wasn't of much account but managed to doze off anyways.

    Around one o'clock in the morning we both awoke, uncomfortable and having a hard time getting much rest. The thought to throw in the towel crossed our minds but I was determined to explore the area more and watch the sunrise later that morning. We toughed it out and when my cellphone alarm went off at five o'clock we were up, getting dressed and ready to go. Thirty minutes is all it took us to evacuate hotel hell and head off into the darkness in hopes of new adventure.

     I navigated us through Tiptonville and over to Champion Point to watch the sunrise. The morning was chiller than expected and neither of us had brought a jacket, it didn't take long for the sky to lighten with the first hints of sunrise. We were able to quickly see a myriad of birds standing on Cypress knees in the lake or flying above. Heron, Cranes, Teals, Wood Ducks, Canadian Geese and more flew about. Soon the sounds of shotguns could be heard echoing from across the lake, duck hunters taking aim on their prey but the area we were in was not open to hunting.

    Waiting for the Sun to come up that morning, standing in a gravel boat ramp parking lot, tired as hell, with the wind blowing up off the water, was the longest sunrise I'd waited on in years. I seriously contemplated putting my arms inside my shirt but getting back in the car wasn't an option, I didn't want to miss a chance for a good picture and didn't want to retreat to the car a third time. We withstood the early morning chill, captured some amazing pictures, and made another lasting memory before heading off to the next location.

Sunrise over Reelfoot from Champion Point

   Our aim had been Choctaw-McCutchen Rd where another hiking trail was to be along with more wildlife viewing in what is known as the Black Bayou Area. When we finally found our target a barricade with signage informed us, Road Closed. Disappointed but not fully deterred I pointed us in the direction of the Air Park, along this highway was the other end of Choctaw-McCutchen Rd but it also was barricaded, Road Closed. We resigned to head down to the Air Park where there was a back country campground and another hiking trail. We found the Air Park and pulled into a spot where a small wooden deck overlooked an inlet of the lake. We explored this area and spied another larger boardwalk further up only to discover it was gated and fenced off. Driving around the campground we found it to occupied by one camper, sparse and back county..just what we like! We did find the trail but again the mosquitoes were on an insane level, it was odd how thick they could be in one area yet others they were virtually non-existent. The Air Park campground and trail would have to wait for a Fall adventure and possible camping trip.

Observation Area Air Park 

     As we made our way North and back into Kentucky we stopped at Long Point Wildlife area where yet another observation deck stood. I found it to be as described, overlooking a field of tall grass, while beautiful with the early morning Sun reflecting off the dew, there was not much to observe. We had actually seen more wildlife on the the drive in to the observation deck than we did while there but it was worth the drive through the countryside.

View from Long Point Observation Deck

   We will be returning to Reelfoot for more outdoor adventures, armed with a bit more education about the area; it will be after the first frost and we won't be staying at the Reelfoot Inn again. The state park is adding cabins which I look forward to seeing completed, maybe on the next overnight trip.

     Our trip turned into more of a recon mission for future adventures, it wasn't perfect, they never are, but I think that's what makes them adventures. There's something about over coming adversity, everything can't and almost never will go as planned but we try not to let it keep us from accomplishing our goals. I look at my adventures the way I look at life, you just have to roll with it.

Adventure Awaits!!